Recently, Zhangjiagang Shepherd Inc. (hereinafter referred to as "Shepherd"), a textile company, achieved a breakthrough in upstream raw material carbon reduction by successfully launching recycled wool products. With the assistance of Carbon Newture, they obtained carbon footprint certification from an authoritative third-party organization. The certificate indicates that the carbon footprint for their "Recycled Merino Wool Spandex Loop Fabric" is 19.00 kg CO₂e per kilogram, covering the entire lifecycle from cradle to gate.
We also had the privilege of interviewing Mr. Zheng Jinhua, Chairman of Shepherd, focusing on "The Value Transition of Recycled Wool", to deeply understand their green and low-carbon practices. This article combines the interview content with market data from the wool spinning industry to comprehensively interpret Shepherd's exploration and achievements in recycled wool.
01. Recycled Wool: Reducing Carbon Emissions from the Source
Wool, as a natural, renewable, and biodegradable fiber, is indispensable in high-end apparel due to its excellent insulation, breathability, and softness. Currently, about one-third of the world's wool production comes from Merino sheep, renowned for its quality. However, the entire production process from pasture to yarn/fabric entails significant environmental costs.
During the breeding of Merino sheep, substantial land, water, and feed are required, accompanied by considerable greenhouse gas emissions. Research shows that during digestion, sheep emit methane, a potent greenhouse gas, accounting for 4.5%–6.5% of the energy they consume. Additionally, chemicals and dyes used in wool cleaning and processing contribute to environmental burdens.
Against this backdrop, recycled wool emerges as a sustainable alternative, significantly reducing carbon emissions associated with wool material extraction, garnering attention in the textile industry.
Using recycled wool not only extends the lifecycle of wool fibers but also substantially reduces carbon emissions from the raw material stage. Mr. Zheng Jinhua highlighted during the interview, "Our recycled wool products primarily use cuttings and scraps, reducing carbon emissions at the raw material stage. Moreover, they require no dyeing, further reducing carbon emissions associated with dyeing." He added, "Compared to virgin wool, our recycled wool fabrics reduce carbon emissions by approximately 30%".
Shepherd has disclosed the carbon information of their recycled wool products on the "International Carbon Disclosure Platform for Textile and Apparel", ensuring visibility, traceability, and recognition of their carbon footprint information.
02. Sustainability ≠ High Cost
Traditionally, "sustainable development" has been synonymous with "high cost". However, the widespread adoption of recycled wool is gradually dispelling this notion, demonstrating that environmental benefits and cost-effectiveness are not mutually exclusive.
According to the Textile Exchange's "Materials Market Report 2024," recycled wool accounts for approximately 6% of the global wool market. The BZ Consulting report, "Global Recycled Wool Market Revenue and Share Analysis: By Type, Application, Region, and Major Participants (2024-2033)," values the global recycled wool market at $124.79 million in 2024. It notes that recycled wool's cost-effectiveness and environmental advantages make it particularly popular in the retail industry, reflecting sustained consumer demand for sustainable products.
03. Recycled Wool: Beyond Wool
To meet consumer demands, Shepherd continues to explore diverse applications of recycled wool, breaking traditional boundaries to achieve technological and low-carbon innovation.
Clothing products may not be suitable for 100% recycled wool due to fiber shortening during recycling, impacting strength and softness and affecting fabric texture. To address this, Shepherd employs advanced blending techniques, mixing recycled wool with fibers like TENCEL™ to enhance fabric durability and wrinkle resistance, suitable for sportswear and other applications. They also blend recycled wool with virgin wool to combine the strengths of both, creating environmentally friendly and high-performance fabrics.
Shepherd's recycled wool products have garnered recognition from several international brands, including The North Face, Decathlon, and Fjällräven. These collaborations underscore Shepherd's technical prowess in recycled wool and its pivotal role in the global sustainable fashion industry.
Notably, producing blended recycled wool fibers presents challenges compared to virgin wool. Improving yarn spinning technology is crucial for enhancing overall production efficiency, highlighting that sustainability and recycled materials demand advanced textile technology.
Currently, Shepherd plans to construct a new recycled wool factory spanning 170,000 square meters. The new facility will feature photovoltaic power systems, implement heat recovery, and utilize recycled water, further reducing carbon emissions during production.
04. Conclusion
For millennia, natural fibers like Merino wool have accompanied human civilization's development, valued for their exceptional qualities. Today, Zhangjiagang Shepherd Inc. not only focuses on 100% Merino wool but also actively responds to China's dual carbon goals, paving the way for sustainable development. Their development of recycled wool products not only promotes resource recycling but also provides a benchmark for low-carbon transformation in the industry, redefining "Made in China" with practical actions.
